But the experience prompted him to be more explicit about the issues he supports. Amy Sussman/Courtesy of BBMA2020. Fashion. There is a growing awareness around conscious consumption and sustainability (Credit: Farfetch). “Price is still key, obviously, but the preference on these elements has increased,” Thomas Husson, vice president and principal analyst at Forrester, told a recent webinar held by data research firm Launchmetrics. This, along with the understanding that we might actually have enough out there already to keep ourselves decked out for decades, has led to a resurgence of interest in making and mending; the wartime cabinets seem to have got it spot on. “Trend analysis of any given era will … The moment illustrated the extent to which fashion and activism have become entwined in a year marked by widespread upheaval, from the global lockdowns designed to curb the spread of COVID-19, to the Black Lives Matter protests and a divisive U.S. presidential election. He noted that until recently, luxury brands generally refrained from getting involved in political and social issues. “It’s been really beneficial for us as we’re growing.”. Adapt” is a “four dimensional design logic inspired by and geared towards the built environment”. And just as there is space for puffed shoulders while the bombs drop, there’s also space for humour. “For me, feminism is super important. Designers are also working on this. “It would be naive to say there is no danger, there is no risk, in taking a stance on something. “From shopping Black-owned businesses to Michelle Obama’s famous ‘Vote’ necklace, clothes and accessories expressed views on social and political issues.”, View Gallery Terms of Use. Find all the latest fashion news in a daily live-feed, including curated Daily Digest picks, breaking news, business analysis and designer interviews. The 2021 Colors of the year, Illuminating and Ultimate Gray, are featured boldly on an oversize hoodie designed in partnership with the Russian fashion label. 2020 has unarguably been one of the most challenging years in living memory, with countless experts and commentators dedicating themselves to analysing our current upheaval. We are in a capitalist world, and it’s not easy to change,” she reflected. Diesel’s Upfreshing collection, for example, features an ‘antibacterial’ coating.”. The Biggest Fashion News Stories of 2020 — So Far The coronavirus pandemic and the Black Lives Matter movement have become the year's top stories. That’s why it has emerged as a strong trend.”. Paria Farzeneh's recent spring/ summer 2021 presentation for London Fashion Week took place in a field outside the city (Credit: Getty Images). Maria Grazia Chiuri, creative director of women’s collections at Dior, frequently uses her runway as a platform for feminist slogans, such as “Patriarchy = Repression.” Was this a way to question the meaning of the fashion system during the coronavirus pandemic? “Fashion is a potent visual marker of our times,” says Caroline Stevenson, head of cultural and historical studies at London College of Fashion. Voices. “We are no longer dressing to be seen. “At an individual level, the ability to express yourself – or at a collective level the ability to enable connection and belonging – is enabled by fashion. Insider spoke with stylists to round up the best and worst fashion trends of 2020, so far. Abloh subsequently clarified that he had in fact donated $20,500 to bail funds and other causes related to the protest movement, which started after the police killing of George Floyd in May. Privacy Policy and Abloh said LVMH chairman and ceo Bernard Arnault and his executive teams deserved credit for being forward thinking. Fashion accounts for 8% of global greenhouse-gas emissions, more than international flights and maritime shipping put together, according to Barclays. The latest fashion news, advice and comment from the Guardian. News Corp is a network of leading companies in the worlds of diversified media, news, education, and information services; ... [2020] has made fashion change the way it sees … ... Canadian Designer Aurora James is Honoured at The Fashion Awards 2020. Countless other brands have risen to the challenge, whether by producing emergency supplies of face masks and hand sanitizer; donating funds to the BLM movement, supporting Black-owned businesses and providing scholarships, mentorship and opportunities to Black students, or producing vote-themed merchandise to mobilize people in the U.S. election. “It really matters to the point that the value of the brand could be destroyed if you don’t pay attention to this.”. December 18, 2020 London-based designer Bethany Williams has incorporated a social purpose into every aspect of her three-year-old brand. She cites Nike’s ISPA as an example of imaginative response: “Improvise. By Joelle Diderich on December 17, 2020 Employees too strive for meaning. “Living conditions in cities are expected to get harder,” says futurist Geraldine Wharry. Michael Buckner/WWD, “Brands that weren’t doing this kind of thing before did not suddenly switch strategy in 2020,” said Simmenauer. “It’s just gotten a bit crazy for us business-wise. Ideas of exponential growth, of personal success and of gratification and identity through consumerism – much-lauded through the 1980s and 1990s – have been revealed as pipe dreams, and quite destructive ones at that. Sustainable fashion was really hitting its stride at the end of 2019, with more brands and consumers actively involved in trying to fix one of the fashion … This year, Williams launched the Emergency Designer Network with fellow designers Holly Fulton, Cozette McCreary and Phoebe English, in response to a shortage of personal protective equipment in U.K. hospitals. In efforts to conserve precious materials for the war effort, single-breasted suits replaced double-breasted; trouser turn-ups were abolished – much to the annoyance of their male wearers. The latest breaking news, ... fashion. The e-commerce company … Christopher Raeburn, of design studio Raeburn, recently launched Raefound, an evolving, non-seasonal range of unworn military clothing and accessories. “It’s responsible design.” He’d be delighted with youngsters Kevin Germanier and Maddie Williams, and of initiatives such as the Redress Design Award, all developing new business models that repurpose and reuse old clothing. A protester at the Dior spring 2021 show. “People are understanding a bit more that we need to put people before profit within business, and think about our responsibility to the planet and the people that we employ, and being responsible to the people that make our clothes also,” added Williams, who last year received the Queen Elizabeth II Award. From editor-curated shopping guides to expert tips on how to make the most of your wardrobe, get ready for the inside scoop on how to live your most … By Odessa Paloma Parker. “That’s the challenge with any designer: you’re making a product and you don’t want to alienate your customer, but then you have to feel good about who’s consuming your world. Flamboyant fashion mogul Peter Nygard has been busted on charges of sexually assaulting dozens of teenage girls and women for decades, Manhattan federal prosecutors said on … One of the Imperial War Museum’s civilian siren suits boasts puffed shoulders, bell-bottom cuffs, piping decoration and a natty hood. I want to be a figurehead in the industry,” said the designer, who was born in Rockford, Ill., of Ghanaian parents. That's … “This year, and time spent in quarantine, offered everyone the opportunity to consider the change they want to make in the world and the legacy they wish to leave behind. L-R: Rochas, Coach, Marni, Louis Vuitton. Gabriela Hearst made headlines when she offset the carbon footprint of her spring 2020 fashion show in New York by limiting transportation energy costs, booking local models, minimizing … “The New Look represented a new image of prosperity.”. On one day in March, menswear brand Band of Outsiders sold more than a 1,000 sweatshirts. “Different ethnicities being accepted within, and allowed the opportunity to shine within fashion or within creative industries, is my story to a T,” he said. I started my career from my own intuition, and I follow my own intuition. “For me, 2020 is a hyper year, but in 2030, I will be doing the exact same thing, because it’s been embedded in my existence since I was born in 1980. The urge to creative expression runs deep. I speak in a particular way from a point of view of women, because it is something that is more close with my personal story,” Chiuri said. “Fashion as activism was stronger than ever in 2020,” fashion search engine Lyst said in its “Year in Fashion 2020” report. By subscribing, you agree to our And if you liked this story, sign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter, called The Essential List. “But what we did see was that those who already had strong commitments reinforced this positioning. News from the Styles, Fashion and Society desks of the New York Times. “There’s definitely been an increased awareness around conscious consumption,” agrees Tom Berry, director of sustainability for online luxury platform Farfetch. We’ve had a lot more interest this year, definitely, and more of an understanding of what we’ve been trying to do for the last three years. It’s incredibly important that this thought trickles down through all levels of the market.” And, if spending more on a single item when incomes are low seems counter-intuitive, think again: “Less disposable income means less money to throw away on clothing each season. Fashion Reviews and News. “I think the whole system has understood that it has to participate, to be more cautious about what we do with what we produce, how much we consume,” Chiuri said. By Maddison Glendinning. Lizzo  “Fashion brands have a responsibility to reflect the times,” said Simmenauer. I feel like people are ready to perceive this, whereas before I didn’t think that was the case,” she said. Simmenauer noted that U.S. consumers are quicker to cancel a brand or designer that they feel doesn’t align with their values. But I realized, in my case, there was room to move that message louder to the forefront, just to educate the newcomers to my atmosphere on exactly what my practice is about,” Abloh explained. Welcome to 2020 — everyone has a voice and consumers aren’t afraid to use theirs. Please fill out this field with valid email address. Hindustan Times via Getty Images. I was voting for Biden, that was what I was interested in, but I never, ever wanted to have people feel that that’s the only way to go,” said Siriano. Get today's Fashion News, Womens Clothing, Style, Lifestyle News, Fashion Designer Articles, Fashion Accessory, Woman Clothing & Videos at WSJ.com. This won’t go away, but the industry does need to live up to its responsibilities, and be part of creating a more positive future.” Buller’s hopes are high. Related Gallery Christian Siriano, who has been outspoken on issues ranging from LGBTQ rights to body positivity, was among the designers encouraging people to vote in the U.S. election, showing a floor-length gown printed with a graphic “vote” pattern — with a matching face mask — as part of his spring 2021 collection. What Fashion Brands Can Learn From Mattel and Toys. “Gen Z were the first to ask the question, ‘What more can a brand bring to society?’ They no longer believe in politics or religion, but they recognize that brands and companies have a role to play that previously, they were not expected to play,” she said. PARIS — At the end of the Dior fashion shown in Paris last September, a woman got up from the audience and walked down the runway carrying a yellow banner painted with the words “We Are All Fashion Victims.”. “I don’t think I would be able to sleep at night if I felt like I was not saying what I want to say.”. Scavenge. You cannot say one thing to a category of stakeholders, of shareholders, or one thing to customers and one other thing to employees. Every definition relates to the big picture: that fashion needs to … Fashion trends, the most potent driver of speed in the industry, look set to come under some serious scrutiny. “Trend analysis of any given era will reveal society’s values and aspirations.”, -        The story of the ‘queen of flowers’. Yeezy Season 8: Fall 2020. “Once they take a stance, it reverberates,” he said. Nov 30, 2020 30 Chic Bags That Are Big Enough to Carry Your Laptop The office- and home-office-friendly bags to shop now. Each collection focuses on the work of a charity, which receives 20 percent of the profits from the sale of the clothes. America's Malls Spiraling Toward Sweeping Reset, the protester was a member of climate action group Extinction Rebellion, rocked by a scandal over sweatshop working conditions and dodgy financial practices within its British supply chain, the industry-wide drive to mobilize voters, raised $1 million for a scholarship fund for Black fashion students, LVMH Broadcasts Show in Lieu of Charity Gala Dinner. Without the distractions that come with everyday life and routine, it was impossible to look away from the crises being experienced all over the world. “If the show itself can take the form of a militant protest, how can you justify excluding a real activist from the event?”. Buttery, colourful leather. The Guardian - Back to home. How Fashion Ramped Up Activism in 2020 Fashion, luxury and beauty brands took a stance on social issues in response to global upheaval. The same can be said of Virgil Abloh, who in 2018 was named men’s artistic director at Louis Vuitton, becoming one of the highest-profile Black designers in the industry. In trying to answer these questions, fashion futurists have had a busy, if somewhat frantic, six months. Amazon's foray into luxury fashion is the latest blow this year to U.S. department stores, which have been hit especially hard by the coronavirus pandemic.. “What we’re trying to design here is system change, not new clothes,” Raeburn told Vogue on its launch. Ruth Ossai / Courtesy of Bethany Williams. “After decades of expansionism, we are contracting, regrouping, reconsidering and refocusing,” says Buller. Abloh also found himself in hot water for criticizing the looting of some stores following BLM protests in Los Angeles and posting a receipt for a $50 donation to Fempower, an artist collective raising funds to bail Black women out of jail. 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